Erica Camille Blog : NYC Music Photographer + Documentary Travel Blog

Koh Samui | Thailand | Couchsurfing with Alex

May 6th, 2012

I ONLY PLANNED TO SPEND A FEW DAYS on Koh Samui to a shoot a wedding, but a few days turned into a week, and it became one of those experiences that left me saying, “this is why I travel.”

I’ve couchsurfed all over the world, but couchsurfing in Europe in 2005 will always stand out, because it was my first big trip. It’s like falling in love for the first time. Though I am still in awe of each place I go, there’s nothing like one’s first taste of the road, and for me, couchsurfing was a big part of that. In Lusanne Switzerland, my host Jerome greeted me with swiss chocolate, pizza, and hookah, and my own room overlooking Lake Geneva. I met my friend Sophie in Lyon, France when I surfed her couch, and had a magical weekend in the countryside with her and her friends. (We’ve since seen each other two more times). I had a free boat tour and private scuba diving excursion while couchsurfing in Australia with Meg. I met Alison, who took me on a road trip along the Great Ocean Road. The list goes on. Couchsurfing is not only a way to experience culture and meet new people, it is, for many people, a way of life, a philosophy, a value system.

Every once in a while (actually more often than not), I meet hosts that go above and beyond, and Alex was just one of those guys. I was immediately comfortable in his home and his presence; it was as though we had met before. Alex moved to Koh Saumi from Russia after a friend encouraged him to pack up his bags and live on the beach. He works as a translator, and since he works mostly from home, we had a lot of time to explore the island on his motorbike and widdle away hours at his favorite beach spots. We spent our evenings down the street at a new pool bar called lucky lips (haha) where we got to know the local ladies (oh yea), and I frequently kicked Alex’s ass in pool.

Our mornings were lazy, but eventually, we’d cruise into town to find the best coffee on the island. We also put away a lot of pad thai and Tom Kha Gai soup at Alex’s favorite food joints. “This is the best soup I’ve found on the island, and I’ve had a lot of soup.” Tom Kai Gai is a traditional soup that I’d had many times but not like this.This was, as Alex affectionately called it, magic soup. It was a freaking pimped out party for your tastebuds. Where does one find this soup? A German sports bar of all places, owned by a German/Thai couple whose daughter prepares the soup. It doesn’t have an online presence yet, so you’re just going to have to ask around for directions to Baden Sports Bar.

During one of our post-swim motorbike adventures into the hills, Alex and I stumbled upon this hidden cafe with spectacular views. We enjoyed a coconut shake while we talked about life and looked down into the valley. It was at that point Alex said, “Yep, life here is pretty sweet, Erica.” And that’s all he really needed to say. “I’m coming back,” I told him.

I went to Koh Samui expecting something similar to the over-developed touristy, (but beautiful) Phuket. But I was lucky, thanks to Alex, I got to experience an underbelly of Koh Samui that few travelers do. Thank you Alex! See you next year…

alex + the magic soup

view from the hidden cafe…

post-coconut shake bliss

alex putty lips at lucky lips

the beach

morning coffee

my attempt at this didn’t go as well, so i’m not including the pictures!

and so begins one of the most epic sunsets i’ve witnessed…

from darkness to light.

Tags: backpacking, couchsurfing, koh samui, most amazing sunsets in the world, solo female traveler, south east asia, thailand, travel blog, travel photographer
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Traveling Solo | Living the Dream | Kuang Si Falls | Laos

April 9th, 2012

As a write this (I’m behind on my entries…), I have less than one month left of my trip. Today, I spent the afternoon on a beach in Vietnam playing volleyball with a group of travelers. Nice, right? For me, this hasn’t just been a trip, but the start and continuation of a life/style that I have dreamed of for many years. In sharing this blog with my friends, family, and the larger world, I hope I can offer inspiration and encouragement to people rather than evoke jealousy and envy. Many avid travelers, including myself, experience friends and acquaintances saying things like, “you’re so lucky,” and “I’ve always wanted to do that.” Well my friends, traveling is not some elusive intangibility, but it does take ambition, and you must want it (it should be noted that many romanticized aspects of traveling get shattered, and you should be emotionally prepared for that). As someone told me before I left, “many have the opportunity, but few take it.”

Fellow female travel blogger, Adventures Kate, sums up my feelings well in her entry “Dear Ladies: This Can Be Your Life, Too.” Kate echos what I’ve said many times. My life is filled with blessings, privileges, and “luck” in it’s own right, (I’m sooo lucky that the nice people that found my wallet at that gay bar in Cambodia contacted me and returned it!) but, I’ve manifested my reality through creativity, hard work, creating goals, and making traveling my number one priority. My priority isn’t being the busiest, most successful wedding photographer in New York City. Nor is it (currently) to build a beautiful home and settle into a traditional relationship and family life. And though I am often out at fabulous events in NYC (mostly for work), I actually spend much of my “NYC life” hunkered down in front of my computer, alone, editing photos, and eating soup that I bulk ordered on Amazon.com to save money (yes, you can order food on amazon..but I also buy locally!). I could tell you that living this lifestyle forces me to compromise and give up some kind of emotional and financial security that many of my peers are settling into. I have no property. My job doesn’t come with health insurance. I have no partner to come home to. No kids. No predictable monthly paycheck. But the truth is, no matter what kind of lives we are living, “security” never really happens, does it? Security is an illusion. It is one in which we find a great deal of comfort, but in the words of the Buddha, is as transient as autumn clouds. I’ve learned (through relationships, traveling, and various other means) that real security comes from within, from knowing how I can use my time, talent, and love to provide wholly for myself and others.

To those who have dreams of traveling, I say to you, go forth and live the life you’ve imagined. If your dreams have gone unfilled up until this point, be generous with yourself, and forgive yourself for opportunities that may have slipped by. Create new dreams and work systematically towards achieving them. This also goes out to people whose dreams may not include traveling the world. Your dream might be settling down with a partner, raising a family, and teaching part time. But the point is, no matter what you are doing, always have dreams. And for those that do wish to travel the world? Well, as Kate writes, “You can keep waiting for your life to change or you can do something about it.” Instead of waiting for friends or significant others to take that trip, get up and go alone, because they may never be ready. “Instead of buying that Dior bag at 70% of you could be learning to kite surf in Mui Ne, Vietnam…instead of a blow out weekend in Vegas, you could be having an unforgettable month on the gulf of Thailand.” You can have this life too, if it’s what you want. (Thanks Kate, great post!).

My life isn’t all waterfalls, sunsets, and rainbows so to speak. Even now, at a time when I can truly say “wow, I’m living my dreams!” I still have my personal struggles just like everyone else. I don’t share them on Facebook like I do all my exciting travel photos, but they exist. I acknowledge that a big part of how I got to where I am is the emotional and financial support of family, friends, and mentors in the pursuit of my dreams. Through traveling, my awareness of privilege (being American, white, from an educated, financially successful family, loving home environment, etc), has magnified exponentially, as has my gratitude. We all have our karma, privileges, and obstacles in life. But, at the end of the day, our lives aren’t handed to us. We build them. All I’m doing right now is building the life I want, and the thing I will say to friends over and over again is simply, “you should, too.”

I have met people from a huge variety of financial backgrounds and personal circumstances who are currently traveling around the world. You don’t need to be rich to travel, but you do need to have savings plan, and you will likely need to simplify your life and curb your spending habits and material lust. For those of you wondering, I averaged about $25-35 dollars a day on this trip, including sleeping, eating, transport, shopping, and massages!

One of my favorite blog entries, Five Regrets of the Dying, originally shared by Bonnie Ware over at Inspiration and Chai, has started going viral on Facebook again (and she’s since released a full length book). I wish I had the courage to be my true self, and the courage to express my feelings. I wish I hadn’t worked so hard. I wish I had stayed in touch with my friends. I wish I had let myself be happier.

Indeed, as exemplified by this beautiful compilation from those nearing the end of their lives, true security doesn’t come from diamond rings, 9-5′s, and big houses. And I would say that freedom doesn’t necessarily come from being single and traveling the world. Freedom, and the sense of “security,” comes from fulfilling our own needs and pursuing experiences that bring us joy and a sense of purpose. I’ve discovered that for me, this means traveling, capturing photos, sharing my feelings, seeing my family, and building a community of friends that digs deep into life, encourages, and inspires me. Above all, I think the first step to realizing personal dreams of any size or grandeur, is to believe that you deserve to be happy, and live the life you want. It sounds simple, but our culture doesn’t teach us this. It’s a lesson we must teach ourselves.

Thanks for reading…GO BIG…and stay tuned for my next adventure.

kuang si falls is a special place. what’s better than swinging from a tree into a turquoise waterfall? not much. jim and i hiked to the top (kuang si falls is a series of 5 or 6 waterfalls) and worked our way down, so that we could enjoy a swim at the bottom after our hard work. it was a fairly challenging, steep hike. there were many paths, some of which led to dead ends and/or away from the falls, but it was a fun maze and we listened for the falls to find our way back.

even though it’s the dry season, i was still impressed! i’d love to see this place during the wet season!

the top!

what’s up!

oh hi!

keepin’ it classy with the stripes!

it was a bit tricky to get a hold of the rope…

wee!

jim snapped these pics of me, i like the guy in the tree in the background

jim crossin the bridge

played with these kids for a while…

hiked to the top of one temples for sunset

cat!

one of our favorite eating spots… 50 cent beers!

one

peace out luang prabang!

Tags: female travel photographer, i want to travel the world, kuang si falls, laos, luang prabang, south east asia travel blog, traveling solo
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Epic Sunset Panorama | Koh Samui Preview

April 9th, 2012

A little preview of what’s to come.
Canon 5d Mark II.
1/200 sec at f 3.5
ISO 400
135 mm

Tags: epic sunset, female travel photographer, koh samui, panorama, travel blog
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Elephant Festival | Sayaboury | Laos | 2012

April 2nd, 2012

At the Wat Phou Festival in Champasak, Jim and I met an enegergetic Portuguese guy who told us about the Lao Elephant Festival.

Wait.
Elephant?
Festival?!
Sold!

From the Kong Lo Cave we headed towards Vientiane via an 8 hour bus ride, where we were destined to get on the most horrible 14 hour night bus journey of our lives. We knew we were in for it the moment we stepped on. There was no air con. The seats were broken and didn’t recline. Our knees were jammed tightly against the seats in front of us. The middle isle was packed (as usual) with locals sitting on little plastic chairs, which made it impossible to stand or stretch our legs. The bus route consisted of dirt roads laced with potholes the entire way, which resulted in a painstakingly slow pace. The windows remained opened at all times, caking us in dust and drying our throats. And then came the vomiting. Just at the night fell upon us, locals next to us started vomiting into plastic bags (which they kept until we stopped hours later). Meanwhile, we had convinced our new friends, Bridget and Zaf, to change their plans and make the journey the day after us!

Beneath the dust and the vomit, there was something about the experience that was beautiful to me. It was a lesson in learning to relax, finding comfort where there is none, and appreciating the fact that this is not part of my daily life. When we finally arrived in the isolated town of Sayaboury, we were exhausted, and we hadn’t yet booked accommodation. Despite the tourist office’s warning that all guesthouses were full, we wandered around with our packs before we finally walked back to the office and asked them to arrange a homestay. The homestay ended up being an amazing experience, and our accommodation was right next to the festival. Our family didn’t speak any English, but we managed to communicate through sign language, laughing, and a few words of language exchange conducted through pointing to objects. Apparently, over 600 local families opened their doors for homestays during the festival.

This was the 6th annual Elephant Festival in Laos, and it is held in partnership with a local elephant conservation center. The festival aims to raise awareness about the critical protection and conservation of elephants in Lao (which is known as “the land of a million elephants”), as well as to celebrate the age-old relationship between human and elephant. It was an incredible experience to be so close to so many elephants. Not quite wild, but not captive, they roamed around, ate, bathed, and gave rides to locals. They were so tame, gentle, and playful…and they often looked as though they were smiling!

Manhout is the term given to those who ride elephants, and it was especially interesting to watch them interact with their animals. In Laos (and other places around the world) manhouts often spend long periods of time away from home, working deep in remote forests with their elephants. The elephants are used for land clearing and logging (no need for labor and machinery when an elephant can just walk up to a tree and pull it out of the ground!), and because they spend most of their lives together, a special relationship between manhout and elephant is forged. This was evident in watching them interact.

I must say, it was a surreal experience to spend three days observing and being among elephants in the middle of Laos. I love animals, and to see such magnificent creatures in this setting was a complete joy. Every night after the elephants went to bed, there were festivities at the main stage. Jim and I, along with thousands of others, sat and watched performances while sipping local beers. We eventually got to meet up with Bridget and Zaf (who also had a miserable bus journey!) and enjoyed our time with them. Everyday we ate a place we called “the cement restaurant,” where we met an English speaking Lao man whose daughter lives in Brooklyn and attends FIT. Small world! (he was so great… he insisted on taking a picture of the two of us and emailing it to her). One afternoon, Jim and I hitchhiked to a reservoir nearby, which although wasn’t as big as we thought, made for an peaceful afternoon adventure. By the end of each day, we were were exhausted; between the heat and the dust and the crowds, we were happy to say hello to our pillows, usually no later than 11.

After saying goodbye to our homestay family at dawn, we headed to the bus station with our packs, our sights set on Luang Prabang… the bity city! Stay tuned.

the only pictures i took of the bus….

welcome to the 2012 elephant festival!

elephant procession

in different parts of asia, they eat duck and chicken embryos…i couldn’t get myself to try it!

no, YOU’RE pizza!

jim…

no south east asian festival is complete without laterns

elephant of year contest

closing ceremonies…

on our way to bed, we met this guy who insisted we come drink with him… so we did!

they didn’t want us to leave! they kept giving us beers to make us stay!

manhout prepares elephant lunch buffet

llunch

the reservoir

hitchhiking back…

our homestay family

Tags: 2012 lao elephant festival, female travel photographer, sayaboury laos, south east asia travel blog
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Inside The Kong Lo Cave | Laos

March 26th, 2012

Burried deep in Phu Hin Bun wilderness of central Laos sits the Kong Lo cave, one of Southeast Asia’s off-the-beaten-path gems. Getting there was half the adventure, but it was so worth it, and easily became the highlight of my time in Laos. From Don Det, Jim and I (along with our new friends Bridget and Zaf) headed to Thakhaek, the first phase of the journey. Like most bus rides in Laos, it was a bumpy one which provided no rest for the weary, especially with the bus driver honking incessantly for four hours at every goat, chicken, motorbike, and human that shared the road!

After a night in Thakhaek, the four of us traveled to Khoun Kham, where we eventually caught a sawngthaew onto Kong Lo (there was a night bus in there somewhere, which stopped at 1 am to pick up an insane amount of 2 x4′s). Indeed, getting to the Kong Lo cave took time….but once there, we had a genuine local experience (in part because many travelers skip over this beautiful area). There are only 2 guesthouses (and some homestays, no internet access) in Kong Lo village. We spent 4 nights at the Ecolodge near the cave, which had simple clean accommodation and a river view. Directly next to the guesthouse is a tiny little restaurant, with the best Laos home cooking one could ask for. I’m hungry just thinking about it! We knocked back some beers, played some cards, all while feeling like we were the only people around for miles.

The spectacular Kong Lor cave is a 7.5 kilometer river cave formed in the Hinboun river under a limestone mountain. Prior to 2004, there were no tours through the cave and no lighting. Now, you can hire a longtail boat (propelled by a lawnmower engine!) led by a local guide for about $6 per person…and it’s so amazing! We glided (or puttered) into the mouth of the cave in bright midday sunlight until suddenly, it swallowed us into complete darkness. The water rushed beneath the boat as we moved, and to simply drag my fingers along in the current while looking up at the massive stalagmites and stalactites, was one of the most incredible and memorable feelings. The ceiling is over 300 feet tall, which evokes quite a different sensation than you imagine from a cave; I was truly in awe of its size. At many points, it just feels spooky and eerie. During the dry seasons, the water level decreases, and at a few points we had to get out and walk in the water (in the dark, I rented a flashlight from a local) while the boatman dragged the boat. At one point, there is a walking path that is now beautifully lit with orange and blue lights (but still very dark!) On the other side of the cave lie villages that also have homestays, but we just ate some water buffalo Laap (local dish), had a beer, and returned to the other side (and yes, going back was just as awesome!).

Lonely Planet sums up the journey to Kong Lo quite well. “Wind your way through a lost world of jungle, bursting with bamboo, eucalyptus and plam. The upsurging rock formations are both dramatic and enchanting, and the streams you pass over are flickering with fluorescent clouds of giant butteries- this is some is some of the country’s most trippy landscape.” At the mouth of the cave is a beautiful, turquoise natural lake, which Jim and I spent two lazy afternoons. Indeed, there were beautiful blue skies, fluffy white clouds, and so many butterflies! The whole place felt surreal, and I remember thinking, similarly to my experience in Phrao, I would love to show someone this place someday.

Hidden behind all the beauty is another side of Laos that is equally important to know. Another traveler told me that while he was picnicking on the other side of the cave, there was an NGO team searching for unexploded bombs. Many people are unaware that during the Vietnam war, there was a secret war happening in Laos, and as a result; Laos is the most bombed country, per capita, on earth. Several nations, including the U.S, signed a U.N. treaty declaring several nations, including Laos, “off limits” to war. Yet, The Secret War became the largest paramilitary operation ever conducted by the CIA (source: CIA official website). Check out the amazing documentary, “The Most Secret Place on Earth,” (and click the links above) to learn more. Unexploded bombs still litter Laos, and as a result, there is a high number of people missing limbs. NGOS continue to work to remove them, but the on-going risk (and untold history of) Laos, a place I still can’t quite find words to describe, hangs in its dusty air.

Next stop, the Elephant Festival… but not before one of the worst transportation experiences of my life! The adventure continues….

met this old lady on the way to the village…she was the best

making a face for the camera

the turquoise lake..picture jim and i laying in the sand for the full effect!

the amazing boatmen

zaf, bridget, jim

more of the boatmen!

first photo inside the cave

shot with my mark ii and 580 exii flash

the cave!

jim

the light

the lake again

butterflies

friendly local women!

part of my new long-term series on women laborers

across from the “restaurant” to the left of the man is a tobacco smoke house. behind him, fields of local tobacco.

zaf trying to take some pics of me…

enjoy boy guesthouse haha

Tags: female travel blogger, female travel photographer, kong lo cave, laos, southest asia travel blog
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4,000 Islands | Don Det | Laos

March 15th, 2012

Fisherman by The Congos

After the Wat Phou festival, Jim and I made our way to the 4,000 islands, otherwise known as Si Phan Don, the southern most part of Laos. Unlike most travelers, we decided to take local transport the entire way from Champasak to Don Det. After this experience, however, I highly suggest going via minibus! There wasn’t much of a price difference, and we spent hours sitting on precariously placed rice sacs hanging out the back of a jam-packed sawng thaew (rice sacs deceitfully look cushy and comfy, but are hard as bricks…and a sawng thaew is a pick-up truck with wooden benches).

The 4,000 islands have been described as a traveler’s dream. Lonely planet writes, “Si Phan Don is an archipelago of sandbars and inlets set amid the turquoise expanse of the Mekong River. At night the river is dotted with the lights of fishing boats, while during the wet season, the lush, palm studded islands are alight with fireflies.” and “Pirogues zip down the river past clouds of butterflies, doe eyed water buffalo, gleaming emerald patties, and a rural lifestyle that hasn’t changed for centuries…welcome to the travelers’ paradise that is Don Det and Dong Kohng.”

24-hour electricity and wireless internet only recently arrived to Don Det; tourism has changed the game, and now to truly be “cut off from the world,” one must venture to a further island. Less than a decade ago, backpackers merely peppered Don Det’s riverfront, and bungalows were $1. Now, it has more than earned a spot on the banana pancake trail. It is notorious for ruining schedules (“I was only going to stay 3 days, but it’s been 3 weeks…”), and I understand why. It seduces you with days of sipping beers in hammocks, sunset dinners on the Mekong, bonfire parties on the beach, and of course, late mornings. The pace of life borders on non existent, and New York City literally felt worlds away. It’s almost a cliche. A hypothetical scene might include a dread-locked guy in his underwear riding by on a pink bike while two other beach bums have a conversation about smoking joints on mountains (“not exactly sure where they were… but it was cool, dude.”). Oh wait…that’s not hypothetical, it actually happened! Every meal or fruit shake on Don Det, by the way, can be made into a “happy meal” (infused with marijuana). At least that’s what I heard!

Jim and I stayed on the sunset side, which keeps cooler during the day, and provides spectacular views at dinner time. To some people’s dismay, but to the benefit of locals, Don Det is no longer the land of $1 rooms. As tourism has grown on the island, working groups have focused on establishing a more sustainable income for farmers and those running guesthouses and eating joints. The idea is that this will also encourage skill growth; as financial independence increases, so does the quality of the visitor experience (as travelfish points out, roofs may be thatched, but they still cost money and need to be replaced…and hey if you can afford to buy a $100 backpack, you should be able to pay $5 for a room!). We paid $10 for our room, but the average is $3-6. Each day, behind our bungalow, a heated game of soccer took place….which I watched while sipping beer in my hammock (decided now wasn’t the time to rekindle my soccer days). One afternoon, I couldn’t tell you which, (the days, uh just seem to run together….must be a contact high from the happy shakes ) Jim and I mustered up the ambition to do a half-day bike ride around Don Det and Dong Khong. We stopped by the waterfalls, and found a beautiful beach, (that many people look for but can’t find), but I didn’t even photograph it because I was enjoying it too much. I thought of friends and family as I swam in this magical little spot… because, well, I’ve discovered that’s what you do when everything’s perfect.

We also procured the motivation to do a full day kayaking trip, ($20) which included dolphin watching for the nearly extinct, rare Irrawaddy dolphin. They didn’t come above the surface much, but we saw at least three, and it felt like such a special thing to see a species that few get the chance to see. We also visited the biggest waterfall in Laos, Khone Phapheng, which was spectacular, and has a back story ingrained in its waters. The waterfall made it all but impossible to navigate between Laos and Cambodia by boat, so French colonizers, (annoyed by the inconvenience!) built a narrow-gauge railway in 1917 that was to be used across the rapids, but it was never completed. There are remnants of this and other aspects of colonialism, (isn’t there always?!) scattered on the island, including a rusty steam engine and bridge that connects the islands.

While there are supposedly 4,000 islands that make up Si Phan Don, most of them are just clumps of vegetation and/or all but submerged… and even then, 4,000 seems a hefty estimate! Regardless, it astounds me to think of all these kinds of little places around the world. It reminds me of when I was younger, and I used to imagine places that no humans have ever been to and pondered their beauty. I still do…..Though Si Phan Don isn’t as culturally rich (due to tourism) as most parts of Laos, it was well worth the trip…it’s just one of those places that feels like nowhere and everywhere. Every night. around 11 pm (after things closed down), travelers gathered on the beach for a huge bonfire….together, we were nowhere and everywhere…surrounded by 4,000 islands…. in a landlocked country, how’s that for magic? Next stop… the Kong Lor cave.

on the way to the island

well i guess this is one way to know it’s fresh…

view from dinner spot

cats with guns

piggys! took these pics for my best friend erica krumbein!

funny looking pups

wheel on a stick toy

many people make their living fishing on Don Det

this guy was so funny….he insisted we visit the old man above and see the fish…i’m glad he did!

gave him my beer, he was very happy.

the rare Irrawaddy dolphin

jim in the water

these two were quite the lovebirds, especially in a country where PDA is frowned upon

largest waterfall in laos

hey look, it’s me

the bonfire

me keeping it classy, thanks to the stranger who captured this

Tags: 000 islands, 4, bonfire parties, don det, loas, photo travel blog, Si Phan Don, southeast asia, travel blog
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Old Woman Rolling Joint | Laos

March 2nd, 2012

These photos obviously needed their own post. Photos taken at Wat Phou Festival, Champasak, Laos.

Tags: laos, old woman rolling joint, travel blog
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Wat Phou Festival | Campasak | Laos

March 1st, 2012

After my lovely experience with Samart in Chiang Mai, I flew to Phuket for my first destination wedding, with Philippines-based photographer Julian Abram Wainwright. Stay tuned for the photos on my wedding blog. I will be returning to Phuket later next month to shoot two more weddings, so I will save my Phuket post until then. After a few days of chilling out, I flew to Ubon where I prepared to cross the Thai border to Laos and meet Jim, my travel partner for the next few weeks.

From Ubon airport, I took a taxi to the bus station, where I waited for a few hours to catch a bus to the Chong Mek border crossing. On the bus, I met a young novice monk, and we chatted for quite some time, as he enjoyed practicing his English. From the drop off point, I made my way on a motorbike taxi to the border where I got my passport stamped and received my visa ($35 if you pay in USD $42 if you pay in Thai Baht). Apart from the poorly marked paths and a little confusion, it was a fairly simple crossing that took about 30 minutes. From there, I grabbed a minibus to the guesthouse where Jim and I had planned to rendezvous. Jim and I met on couchsurfing.org in the South East Asia forums while we were planning our trips. We decided, despite never meeting or talking on the phone, that we would travel together for almost three weeks in Laos. Jim is a young older guy (51 but passes for 40), and we proved to get on well…most of the time (a brother-sister dynamic ensued!)

I was eager to explore Laos, and see how it differed from Thailand. Laos is the first communist country I have visited, and I was curious to see how, if any, the communist state influenced the culture. I will talk more about this in later posts. Jim and I spent our first few nights in Pakse, which is mostly a border crossing town, but we found it quite nice. We had a delicious dinner (Tom Yom soup—decided to skip the “pork bowels”) on the Mekong as the sun went down at a lively spot where many locals were gathered drinking beers. Before bed, we enjoyed some traditional Lao herbal massages, which are quite divine (and cost $4-6/hour!). Unfortunately, by this time, I had become quite sick due to an air conditioner in Phuket, but with a few days rest, I was back to normal.

The (usually) sleepy town of Champasak was our first official destination in Laos. Along with thousands of Lao locals, we were headed to the full moon festival at Wat Phou, one of the oldest archeological sites in Laos. Constructed in the 9th century, it was a holy site for Hindus and later Buddhists. Once annually, during the full moon on the third lunar month, there is a religious festival held at the site, and it just so happened to coincide with our travel plans. Unfortunately, today the ruins are just that—in ruin—and in danger of crumbling, even as organizations in France and Japan work to restore them (Wat Phou is a UNESCO World Heritage Site).

After spending our first day wondering the festival’s huge market in the incredible midday heat, we decided to take a break on following day, by hiring a boat to take us to the tiny fishing island across the river, Don Daeng. We had planned to spend most of the day on along the shore under the sun. But before settling in, we ventured off for a little walk. Fast forward four hours later; we were lost, exhausted, and burdened by aching feet (with only our flimsy flip-flops shielding them from the ground). We gravely underestimated the width of the island, and thus ended up walking 25K over the course of five hours in brutal mid day Laos heat. This was an immense challenge for me physically and mentally, and I had to prevent myself from stopping for breaks, because I knew we needed to keep going. We considered backtracking multiple times, (and should have) but we just kept going. Though strenuous, we saw some beautiful sites along the way; children riding bikes in front of a temple, kids playing with push carts, and families making sticky rice over fire in tubes of bamboo. When we finally arrived in familiar territory, we enjoyed a half hour of swimming in the murky Mekong before the boat returned to pick us up. We also noticed that had we walked right instead of left, there was a beautiful eco-resort with a swimming pool and bar, where we could’ve spent the day relaxing!

On the last day of the festival, we climbed to the top of Wat Phou ruins. The temple was lit by hundreds of candles that the monks had set ablaze at dawn as part of an extensive alms blessing. Walking up these glowing ruins at dusk was a spiritual experience for me. Incense burned strongly from all directions, monks and nuns stationed at various places offered blessings, and near the top, I watched children and families collect water from a fresh water spring that trickled through the cracks of the ruins. It has been flowing for thousands of years, and the water is believed to be holy. And just as the festival began winding down, dozens of lanterns began floating into the sky…between the moon, the candles, and the lanterns, it was like sitting atop a spiritual dreamland.

Other than Wat Phou, there isn’t much to see or do in Champasak. It’s a small village that runs by nature’s clock, and like many cities and towns, is sustained by and dependent upon the Mekong. Even as there were hoards of people coming and going for the festival, the vibe was still completely relaxing. It contains only one dusty “main street,” which has a fair number guesthouses (we had no problem getting a room without booking in advance). Unlike many other travelers we ran into, Jim and I were traveling south to north in Laos, which enabled us to exchange useful information with our fellow travelers. From Champasak, we headed even further south to the fabled “4000 islands,” which many call paradise. Stay tuned.

you thought finding your car at target was hard….

i am starting a long-term photo project about children with toy guns….this picture was not posed.

loved this little boy with bright pink fingernail polish…perhaps another gender themed photo project is in store

the traffic to the festival was amazing

don daeng finishing island…the trek begins

officially lost… we contemplated stealing a boat….

wat phou festival, eveningtime

jim and our Portuguese friend…. who we ran into in four different cities Laos

not sure how much the fan is helping…

full moon at wat phou

more children with toy guns…

collecting water

it’s a long day for local vendors…

next year they will do it all over again… without a doubt, it’s the most exciting thing that happens in the town each year.

Tags: 2012 wat phu festival, champasak, female travel bloggers, female travel photographer, laos travel photography, loas, south east asia travel blog, travel photographer, wat pho festival, wat phou
Posted in TRAVEL + DOCUMENTARY | 2 Comments »

Couchsurfing, Spicy Joe Bungalows, & Snoop | Chiang Mai

February 21st, 2012

I was planning to catch a bus to Pai to attend an annual reggae festival, but after waiting 4 hours at the “bus station” (it’s not a bus station if you have to frantically flag down your bus on the side of the road, is it?) and being told by some old ladies (in mutually agreed upon sign language), that I had missed the last bus, I had no choice but to shack up in the little town of ihonestlyhavenoidea. It was just one of those days. I grabbed some beers, fried chicken, and chocolate, and hunkered down in my room, where I stalked you all on facebook and enjoyed a much a needed shower (not at the same time).

While I was reveling in my little one-woman party, I got a call from Samart, (aka Spicy Joe) a couchsurfer I had contacted and spoken with a few weeks earlier. He invited me to his bungalows, pointing out, “the reggae festival will be too hectic… and who likes reggae music anyway?” Well, I do, but since I was alone, I saw it as chance to be in good company and gain some local perspective.

I rose at dawn and grabbed a tuk tuk pointed towards Chiang Mai. (Sidenote: I was freezing the whole way because, in one of my trademark, lackadaisical moves, I left my only long sleeved shirt in Bangkok). When I arrived, Samart greeted me casually and welcomed me into his home. Samart is a long haired, laid back, multilingual, former monk with a passionate love of the word “spicy” (you like spicy women, don’t you? he would later ask me…) He is the ultimate traveler, trek leader, and all-around-adventurer, as well as one of the most active participants in couchsurfing that I’ve met in my travels. His walls were covered with letters, cards, and photos from travelers he has hosted and guided on treks, many of which included phrases like “best time of my life.” At one point I asked him, “isn’t the revolving door of people and the constant goodbyes emotionally difficult for you?” He responded simply, “yes, it is,” and gazed off into the distance.

Also staying with Samart was a couple from California, Christine and Steve …. They are app developers traveling around the world for “2 or 3 years,” and their backpacks for this epic journey were the size of a carry on suitcase. I wish I had taken a photo. Samart made us a scrumptious breakfast (he even read my mind and brought me coffee—did I mention he is a freelance mindreader?), and afterwards, we (Samart, his driver, and a Slovakian couple) hopped into the van and headed towards the bungalows. On the way, we stopped at a market where Samart wanted to “pick up a few things.” Apparently, “a few things” means a giant knife, a dozen baby ducks, some fish, and the cutest puppy in the entire world.

This is where my love story begins. When you travel, you always wonder in the back of your mind, “will I fall in love on this crazy adventure?” Well, I did. His name is Snoop, (I named him) and well, he is a dog, he is a Snoop Doggy Dog, but that’s a minor detail. We’re in love, and I miss him terribly. My arms feel empty without him.

When we arrived at the bungalows, I knew I had made the right decision. These are not just bungalows, but an official backpacker destination called Spicy Joe Ecovilla and Bungalows. Built by hand from the ground up (mostly out of bamboo), this beautiful ecolodge and organic farm sizzles out earthly and spiritual magic. There were a handful of volunteers staying there, among them a couple from the UK and a woman from New Hampshire. We all bonded and chatted about our experiences at home, and in our travels. We collected rocks at the river to mix with sand and cement to create stone pathways around the bungalows. When we were utterly filthy, we headed to the waterfalls for an evening shower and swim. It was deserted. Chilly, but just perfect. I count this—standing under a seemingly secret rushing waterfall—as one many moments on this trip that have felt surreal.

The next afternoon, after more cement projects (including a lopsided BBQ…how’s that coming Samart?), we went on a lovely tubing adventure. I brought my cheap underwater camera, which I will probably forget to develop for 3 years. Of course I went the wrong way and finished last, but it’s not a race! We spent the evenings drinking Thai Whiskey and a special potent plum alcohol the Slovakian couple provided. We cooked, ate, played games (one of the games involved knowledge of European country capitals, at which I was dismal), and of course I spent copious amounts of time with my love, Snoop. I even convinced Snoop to do some Yoga Tune Up work so I could show off his little yoga physique and skills to my friend/yoga teacher Ariel Kiley.

Upon returning to Chiang Mai, we had one last hooray together at Samart’s favorite Thai BQQ buffet. It was a massive, bustling place, and we selected fresh raw meat and fish to cook on our little BBQ. On the way home, we blasted some classic rock and roll, and sung out the window. I enjoyed my time with Samart and the little piece of bungalow heaven he has created immensely. I am confident our paths (and mine and Snoop’s path!) will cross again. If you have stumbled upon this blog while researching South East Asia, and you are interested in one-of-a-kind accommodation, volunteer experience, tours and treks, I highly recommend, Samart. Check out Next Step Thailand for more information, and to book, contact Samart directly at spicywildpumpkin at gmail.com.

Though I wanted to stay longer, it was time to head to to Phuket to shoot my first destination wedding… and afterwards, cross the boarder into Laos. Stay tuned.

trying before buying…

fried crickets which are actually quite delicious

welcome to spicy joe’s ecovilla

the best bar in town

um, obviously i love this man

snoop!

wifi is everywhere…

building a BBQ

one of the dozen baby ducks got sick… it couldn’t hold it’s little head up.

i tried to keep it warm in my shirt….

snoop tried to keep it warm too! but it just didn’t make it. rest in peace little duck. (and yes, i’m obsessed with this picture).

he loved yoga tune up balls!

snoop did too!

trying to install solar panels…

BBQ

Thanks for reading!

Tags: chiang mai trecks, female travel photographer, southeast asia travel blog, spicy joe bunaglows
Posted in TRAVEL + DOCUMENTARY | No Comments »

The Secret Valley of Phrao

February 11th, 2012

I was determined to visit the hidden valley of Phrao. Or was it Phayao? Or Phrae. Shit. Where was I trying to go? The chicken scratches in my journal became my enemy as I tried to make my way to this tiny off-the-grid town. From Chiang Rai, I took a bus to Phayao only to realize Phayao is not Pharo and Phrao is where I wanted to be. After taking a look around, I decided to continue on to Mae Salong.

After my adventure with Gilles in Mae Salong, I made my way back to Chiang Rai to try to catch a bus to Phrao…again. As it turns out, I’m not the only one who confuses Phayao with Phrao, and I almost ended up on a bus BACK to Phayao (I was literally about to get on and then my gut told me to get out my map and point to Phrao). Eventually, someone at the bus station informed me that I had missed the last bus and I would have to get one tomorrow.

Funny enough, I ran into the Gilles at the bus station, and he was nice enough to take me to the secret $5 a night guesthouse he had stayed at the week before (getting there on his motorbike was a balancing act since both of us had our backpacks). I spent the day wandering along the bar-lined streets of Chiang Rai, had a couple beers at a Rasta bar, and treated myself to surprisingly good Italian food.

The next morning, I made my way back to the bus station, only to be told once again that there were NO BUSES to Phrao. My patience dwindling, I literally dragged the woman at the information “desk” to talk to the bus drivers, (who were all telling me different things), and after an extended conversation, they determined that I could get a bus to the town of Wiang Pa Pao, spend the night there, and get a bus the next morning to Phrao. It became clear through all this chaos that not many people go Phrao, which amplified my curiosity…

My night in Wiang Pa Pao ended up being a blessing. After arriving, I set out on a bicycle ride (when I asked for a a motorbike, the guesthouse owner proudly presented me with an actual bike, and I decided a little exercise wouldn’t kill me…). While biking, I came across a group of rice field workers eating and drinking on a platform near their rice field. I waved to them and they waved me over, insisting I join them. They had just finished their long workday and were happily taking shots of Thai Rice Whiskey (and insisted I do so, too). I knocked back a couple, spoke the 10 Thai words I knew (I counted to ten twice and they all counted with me), and continued biking. On my way back, I met one of the same guys I met earlier, this time with his wife and daughter. I took a couple more shots of Thai Rice Whiskey, as they (drunkingly) talked my ear off, not seeming to care that I didn’t understand a word they were saying.

When I finally arrived in Phrao, I was immediately struck by its tranquility. I was the only traveler in sight; and I didn’t see any the whole time I was there, even at my guesthouse. The German owner of my guesthouse, Doi Farang Bungalows, explained that the place was empty tonight, but tomorrow I would have to leave because a team from Google Earth was coming for the weekend. They come every weekend, he said, working to put Phrao, quite literally on the map.

The scenery was absolutely stunning as I slowly puttered along on my motorbike. Beautiful, bizarrely shaped mountains surrounded me on all sides. Glowing green rice fields went on for miles. I passed through the small village of Ban Haui Sai, or “Sandy Stream.” It is a peaceful settlement rarely visited by outsiders, where locals make their living farming tobacco and rice in the valley’s fertile ground.

Later in the evening, I found a high hilltop to watch the sunset, and I barely have words to tell you how dazzling it was against the mountain range. It changed colors from minute to minute, and I just stood there alone watching it creep behind the landscape. I’ve been to many countries and watched many sunsets, but this has to be one of the most stunning I can recall. I sang out loud, and did a little “I love life dance,” and thought of family and friends as the sun took its final breathe before disappearing into slumber.

Phrao offered me a look into the unspoiled Thailand that I longed to see. Pristine and free of tourism, it is by far one of the most traditional, rural regions in Thailand at the end of the 20th century. Until recently, the only way to reach this village was by longtail boat (the road, though it doesn’t seem new, is new, and perhaps that’s why it was so hard to get there). As I went to bed in utter quietness, I couldn’t help but wonder what changes Phrao would see in the next decade. Part of me didn’t even want to make this entry (there are barely any blogs or online information about Phrao) because I’d like to go back one day and have it be the same…

The next morning I rose early and made my way to Chiang Dao where I visited the Chiang Dao caves. I didn’t take too many pictures because I didn’t want to bring my flash, and I wanted to experience the cave more than photograph it. I did a 500 stair walking meditation to the top of a temple where I did another meditation and a bit of yoga as the sun set. This was a beautiful part of my trip, during which I spent all my days alone. I think part of why people are afraid to travel alone is the inner thinking that it sparks; being alone without family, friends, and significant others, navigating unfamiliar cultures and languages, flips your thinking inward. As I’ve made this journey, I have asked many questions about myself, the state of the word, our shared future in these tumultuous times, but I’m also learning to shut down my mind, which has always been a challenge for me, and especially when it’s just “my thoughts and i.” I feel so strongly we are in a time of great transformation, both in our personal paths, as well as our collective journey as communities, nations, an earth, and a universe. This manifests in a multitude of ways, but as my dear friend Emily eloquently wrote to me a few weeks ago “It’s as though I can barely breath one minute, and yet in the next, I find my deepest breath ever.”

I can’t explain to you what I’m experiencing and I don’t know what you are experiencing as I write this, (I don’t even know who reads this) but we are experiencing something together, and that might be our most important experience of all.